Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
